Ulla Johnson on Why Artisanship Still Matters at Scale
WIE SUITE WOMEN
December 15, 2025
Ulla Johnson is the founder, chairwoman, and creative director of her eponymous line.

Born and raised in Manhattan, the daughter of archaeologists, Ulla Johnson honed her signature style between the streets of New York and the far-flung destinations of their family travels. Her eponymous line, founded in 1999 just after her graduation from university, immediately caught the attention of the fashion press.

Growing from a handful of directional boutiques and with an early endorsement from Barneys New York, Ulla Johnson’s collection has gained a dedicated following and the support of retailers across the US, Europe, Australia, and Asia. She has never wavered on her steadfast attention to the details of construction that have become her hallmark, basing each of her collections on a foundation of natural fibers, beautiful finishing, and ease of fit and form.

Ulla lives in Brooklyn with her husband and three children.

"There’s great power in having your own point of view. Staying true to your voice and what makes your work special is integral."

You built your eponymous brand, Ulla Johnson, over two decades. In an industry driven by trends, how have you sustained both creative evolution and commercial relevance?

When I started the business, I quickly realized the power of having your own voice.  I started small, and as we’ve evolved it’s been a deliberate decision of mine to expand consciously, and to make sure the brand didn’t lose what made it feel special by being oversaturated or growing for the sake of it.

Our aesthetic is incredibly defined – people know when it’s one of our garments. There is something that is very much our own, that we have continued to articulate and be true to. My goal has always been to speak to women’s hearts and minds and in the end, I do think this has served to differentiate our brand and defined our growth.

As you’ve scaled your brand, it still feels deeply personal and artisanal. How do you operationalize that balance between craft and scale?

We remain deeply committed to working with our artisan partners globally, to not only uplift the makers but also preserve and expand upon traditional techniques. I do believe this work we do resonates with our UJ woman – that they care deeply about the integrity of the pieces they live and invest in.  While it’s not always the easiest route, it’s incredibly important to the brand and something we’ll continue to expand.

Where do you find inspiration, and how do you translate that into something that feels new but distinctly Ulla Johnson?

I derive a lot of inspiration from paintings and fiber art, such as unexpected color juxtapositions, gestures, and motifs. These often inform the initial spirit of our collections. What we really try to do every season is bring together the hands of so many artists and artisans. Over the past few years, we’ve been fortunate to partner with artists I admire very much for our ready-to-wear collections and runway shows, with more exciting collaborations on the horizon.

Do you have one secret to your success?

There’s great power in having your own point of view. Staying true to your voice and what makes your work special is integral.

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